Trains, taxis, busses, and touts!

Todd pretty much summed up our Dar Es Salaam experience. Nice enough place, but not too much to do or see. And forget about getting a beer with your meal, no alcohol in most of the restaurants because the city has a huge Muslim population. But the food was excellent. We have both taken a liking to Indian puffed rice with spices and wierd stringy yellow things. Sounds crazy but a nice snack.

The train, awesome! The tanzania countryside is very diverse and randomly mountainous. The time went by fairly quickly even with the 6 hour delay. Apparently, the brakes failed at the top of a hill so we had to stop in a little place called Mlimba. I believe this was a justified delay, but must say it is a tad unnerving to be woken up at 2am with chaos and commotion while being in a small cabin with no view of the outside. Once we arrived in Mbeya a really nice guy helped us find a place to stay and sort out the bus system. I would highly recommend Peter's and friends Walking Tours to anyone. He was honest, friendly, and full of useful information.

Tanzania is full of touts: read, people willing to sell you everything, but especially various forms of transportation. Everytime we exited the train or ferry or just walked down the street we had at least 3 plus people offering us various rates to anywhere. It was completely overwhelming, so finding an honest guy like Peter was a real treat. The Ten Commandments hotel he recommended needs to work out some kinks, but overall it has potential...in the very long run.

We did experience some interesting bus rides. They stop a lot and manage to cram an unbelievable amount of people into a bus. Children are on laps or standing, so there can be up up to five people in a seat for two. A tad crowded but people don't seem to mind. My favorite part is the stuff people try to sell you everytime the bus stops; roasted corn, eggs, maize milk, chips and cabbage stuff, peanuts, drinks in plastic baggies, oranges, fried bananas, simosas, potato balls, etc. They hold their baskets up to the windows and exchanges are made through the windows. Generally, it is a noisy occurence. The one item I just don't think I can get up the nerve to try is the grilled mice on a stick. The tails are like harpoons they are so stiff. I am sure it tastes delicious to some, but my mind is not yet open enough to try such a delicacy.

Our ride from Mzuzu to Lilongwe took 6hours. I was in the very front basically kissing the windshield with the heat from the bus spuing through a vent onto my legs. I would much rather be in the back of the bus. The speeds at which the driver took some of the downhills with sharp curves at the bottom, left me quit panicked. He also didn't seem to have his eyes open the whole time, but we did arrive safely. I just closed my eyes and listened to my ipod. Apparently, my seat was first class compared to Todd's arrangements. A family of five, mom and dad next to Todd with one child on the lap and the other two in the aisle passing food over him and using his pants as a napkin. It just solidified the no children campaign.

Overall, it was an exhausting journey, but well worth it. We are now in Lilongwe with Dale and Jeannie. I cannot believe we actually found the Peace Corp office from the bus station, but we did and without too much hassle. Now we are enjoying the comforts of a house. I took my first shower since Tuesday and have clean clothes on. I am a happy lady that smells of roses. There is a Peace Corp party at the house tonight and about 20 people cooking downstairs. It should be a lot of fun.

So far, Africa is great. Moments of frustration but things are so new to me that I continue to be amazed by EVERYTHING! It is a fabulous newness that I haven't experienced in awhile.

Hope everyone is doing well! We think of you often! Cheers, Erin